Shortcuts to Intermediate Climbing

I’ve been climbing regularly for about a year now. Mostly bouldering (no ropes, just a crash pad), at a great indoor wall in Bermondsey called The Arch. While I’ve still got a long way to go to becoming a good climber, there are a few key things I’ve learnt that let me progress from the beginner stage. As these things seem to be common among climbers but not obvious to beginners, I’ve shared them below to save anyone starting out the trouble of figuring them out for themselves.

Don’t do pull-ups

Overhangs. These climbs, where the wall has a slope of more than 90° (more than vertical), tend to be the hardest for beginners. The key is to expend as little energy as possible by keeping your arms straight and pushing from your legs to move up. Whenever you’re static for more than a second, make sure your arms are straight. Think about doing pull-ups — is it easiest to rest halfway through one, or at the bottom with straight arms?

Twist your body

Most people have their body square to the wall when they start climbing. This feels natural, just like climbing a ladder, but has several disadvantages. Having your body (hips and/or shoulders) twisted will keep you closer to the wall while allowing you to reach further — watch an experienced climber at work on an overhang problem and notice how often they twist their body from left to right depending on which way they have to reach for the next hold.

This was me at The Arch almost a year ago. Arms bent, body square to the wall, standing on the balls of my feet. If only I’d had this article…

Thumbs up

Pushing on a hold with your thumb while pulling with your fingers makes for a much stronger, more stable grip, and is less tiring. Good grip technique will allow you to progress more quickly without having to spend time doing boring finger strength exercises.

Pay attention to your feet

It’s easy to focus on the arms and hands, but if you’re climbing right then your legs will be doing most of the work. Think about where you place your feet, and place them carefully and deliberately. It’s almost always best to use the very tip of your toes rather than the balls of your feet. If there’s only one foothold available, the second leg doesn’t have to dangle. Place it somewhere deliberate on the wall or even in the air for counter balance.

Standard Moves

Flag. Drop knee. Smear. Rock over. Toe hook. Heel hook.

While it took me a while to realise this as a beginner, good climbers largely rely on a combination of standard moves, and knowing what these are gets you a long way. The trick, especially in bouldering, is figuring out how to combine the moves around the available holds. This is why boulder routes are called ‘problems’ — they’re as much a puzzle as an exercise.

Try this book if you like taking a methodical approach to learning. It’s £15 for a used version, but if you ask nicely I’ll lend you mine.

Fail more

As with anything, if you’re not failing regularly then you’re not pushing yourself enough. Once you get comfortable climbing at a certain level, start trying harder problems. If you struggle with specific types of problems (like I do with overhangs), then spend more time trying those.

Get excited

As Einstein said, the best way to learn is by “doing something with such enjoyment that you don’t notice that the time passes”. I find climbing enjoyable, but as with anything there are times when other things take over, you become busier, and find it hard to keep making time for it.

To counter this, remember why you want to climb. Watch amazing videos. Read inspiring books. Try different types of climbing. Challenge yourself. Find a group of people to go with. I was lucky enough to have some people in my group of friends happy to go climbing with me, and am making more friends along the way.

I feel like I’ve learnt a lot this past year, mostly about how much there is to learn. This year I’d like to learn more about rope techniques, and climbing outdoors. While I’ll still be bouldering too, I’ll be making time to go on some trips to the Peak District and other UK climbing sites. Get in touch if you’d like to join me.

Smart Packing: A Way To Increase Eurotunnel Capacity?

How much more traffic could Eurotunnel carry if cars were loaded in an optimal way?

The Eurotunnel, built in 1994, has grown into one of the most popular routes across the English Channel, taking 10.3 million passengers between England and France every year. A compelling alternative to ferries and the passenger train service, Eurostar, Eurotunnel allows customers to drive their car onto a train in Folkestone and drive off the train in Calais 35 minutes later.

Eurotunnel trains have two decks where cars drive in at the back on one side, and out at the front when the train reaches the other side. Each deck is made up of around a dozen carriages, with doors between them. When a car is too long to fit in a carriage with the other cars already in there, it has to leave a space at the back of this carriage and start a new carriage. This is where there might be potential for improvement — can we make these spaces smaller by loading cars in a different order?

I’ve often taken the Eurotunnel, sometimes having to wait 20 minutes for a train because our car just didn’t fit on the previous train. I’ve also been on trains where there are noticeably large empty spaces in carriages, wondering if these could be eliminated or significantly reduced by being smarter about how cars are loaded onto the train. Just how much spare capacity is there?

How things are packed matters

It’s not difficult to estimate an upper bound on the amount of spare capacity: take a train, count the number of cars per carriage, estimate their lengths, and see how much unused space is left.

So that’s what I did. On a recent train I took, I walked through and counted the number of cars in each carriage, as well as recording their makes and models so I could look up their lengths.

The train I was on had 2 decks with 12 passenger car carriages on each deck, making for a total of 24 carriages. 101 cars were on the train, with between 4 and 5 cars in each carriage.

How many more cars could we fit on if we loaded them in the optimal order?

Based on the length of the cars in the most fully packed carriage, I estimate a carriage to have approximately 23m of usable space in it. This gives us 24 * 23 = 552m of usable space. The total length of all the cars in the train was 460.5m. This leaves 92m, meaning that if the cars had been packed optimally, utilising every last cm of space, we could have packed on 20% more cars…

This is not realistic, of course. Cars come in fixed sizes, so we’ll never be able to do anything about a 1m space at the end of a carriage. But it gives us an upper bound, as we know that we couldn’t possibly fit more cars in when all the unused space is full.

What about a lower bound? I found an alternative configuration for the cars in the train I was on, taking into account the length of each of the cars, which would leave 50.5m of free space at the end of the train. This translates to approximately 10%.

Waiting for the next train

If my train was representative, we could transport 10-20% more cars on each fully loaded train. How significant is this? What costs would be involved?

I’m sure any Eurotunnel executive would love to have an easy way to raise profits by 10–20%, but unfortunately that’s not what this is. This number only applies:

  • During busy periods, when trains run full and there is always a backlog of cars waiting for the next train. Making use of this during less busy periods would imply running trains less frequently, negatively impacting the customer experience.
  • If we can get the cars in the right order. Even if we can work out an improved configuration, is it actually feasible to get the cars in that order given that they probably won’t arrive in that order? Would there be a lot more overhead in terms of time, space, or staff required to do this, which might negate the benefits?

While 10–20% during busy periods might not mean a lot to Eurotunnel’s bottom line, it would mean a lot to the 10 or so cars who would currently be stuck at the front of the queue waiting 20+ minutes for the next train. While this takes care of the first point, we’re still left figuring out how to get the cars in this order.

Could another car have fit behind this one?

So let’s take a step back. At this point you might wonder how I arrived at that improved configuration from earlier. Maybe I spent hours in Excel, painstakingly trying out different configurations and seeing which one was best. Or maybe I wrote an algorithm which did that and spat out the best configuration it could find. In fact, I did neither. This is the method I used, starting from the way cars were arranged on the train I was on:

  1. If the first car in a carriage can fit into the carriage in front of it, then move it forward one carriage.
  2. There is no step two. That was it.

This might seem obvious, almost to the extent that it seems wrong.

How could this make any difference? Isn’t that how the cars are loaded anyway?

Mostly, yes. But this is not always easy — when cars are being loaded, they’re in a tight line, and having a car go into a carriage to then reverse out of it if it doesn’t fit isn’t an option, as this would require the whole line of cars to move back. This results in scenarios like the diagram below.

Two different scenarios with the same cars

The first case is where there is enough space to fit another car in the carriage, but because it’s hard to tell whether it will fit it doesn’t make sense to risk having the purple car go forward in case it has to reverse out again.

The second case is what would ideally happen, and is the improvement presented in the alternative configuration I suggested.

How can we make this happen?

There are two strategies we could use to turn the first scenario into the second one:

Make trial and error an option

When loading into a tight space, hold back the line of cars while seeing if the car at the front can fit.

Pro: no extra infrastructure needed

Con: extra loading time required

Figure out whether a car will fit in a space before it moves forward

Use a combination of sensors and data about the length of each car to measure whether a car will fit into a space, giving a green or red light to indicate whether a car should proceed to the next carriage or not.

Pro: no extra loading time required

Con: extra infrastructure needed


I would be interested in knowing if the first strategy has been considered, as it could be implemented and tested very quickly. The second strategy would require more planning and investment, but would pay back over time.

The next step would be to make intelligent use of both decks. Since both decks are loaded simultaneously, cars could be redirected onto the deck which would allow them to leave the least unused space in their carriage, with minimal overhead in terms of staff or time — for example, the staff could have an app telling them which deck to direct each car onto, based on where they would make the best use of space.

I can’t imagine there would be anything worth doing beyond that point, but here’s a challenge: you can find the data and my calculations in this shared document. Let me know your ideas, or any improvements on mine. And if you really want to expand on this, collect and share your own data!

Secrets of Bagan: City of Two Thousand Temples

Bagan is the highlight of the Myanmar tourist trail. An ancient city once containing 4000 temples (2200 remain), built between the 11th and 13th century AD, Bagan has a lot to offer. The most popular things to do in Bagan are to rent a bike or horse and cart to explore these temples, and to watch the sun set over the fields full of temples from the top of the ever-busy Shwesandaw Pagoda.

Sitanagyi Paya

On our second night in Bagan we were out to find a temple we could climb to get a good view of the sunset, without being squeezed in among a mass of people. Our search brought us to Sitanagyi Paya, a few km south of New Bagan. Constructed in the 13th century AD, this temple seemed perfect for us: while we couldn’t find the usual grand entrance containing stairs to the top, there was some bamboo scaffolding going up the side of the temple. As we climbed up the scaffolding a local man stopped us and told us that climbing was not allowed — but there was a way in.

He brought us to a small window in the side of the temple, which he said gave access to a network of tunnels covering the whole of the temple, and led us inside.

Window to the inside

The inside was pitch black and felt like a very narrow cave filled with almost unbearably dense, dust-saturated hot air. He drew a map of how the tunnels were laid out and explained the route we would take. Following him further inside, I became very aware of the immense weight of the temple towering over us. The guide (who is there daily and maintains the temple) was extremely friendly and concerned for our well-being as he led us on, checking with every step that we were ok and happy to go on further.

Our guide’s map and one of the crawl spaces between tunnels

As we adjusted to the darkness in the temple and shone our torches around, we noticed the various forms of wildlife residing there. Our guide quickly put us at ease and assured us that neither the cockroaches, spiders or bats bite humans and demonstrated this by taking one of the spiders in his hand and letting it crawl off.

We entered several different tunnels separated by smaller crawl spaces, as the light from the small window to the outside faded away and the air became even more stifling. As we entered new spaces the bats would fly within inches of our faces— again our guide assured us that they would not get any closer.


The tunnels themselves had been entered and ransacked by the Japanese during WWII, leaving little of interest other than a headless statue of the sitting Buddha. Despite this the whole experience certainly made this the most memorable temple visit for us in the whole of Bagan, and we would highly recommend it.

A few more general tips for Bagan

  • Though we were reluctant at first, we really enjoyed the half-day horse and cart tour we did. It cost us $12, and allowed us to see all the main temples in a short time while being out of the heat for most of it. Do take care when picking a driver; the first one we spoke to seemed very loud and aggressive and turned out to be drunk.
  • Some people rent bicycles, but the E-bikes (bikes with an electric motor) offer the same freedom, are not much more expensive, and won’t tire you out. We rented ours from Than Dar in New Bagan (061 65272, 09 256228575). The battery lasted for about half a day; when it ran out we just called them and they came to replace it at no extra charge.
  • Be Kind To Animals The Moon in Old Bagan is a great restaurant with a wide range of vegetarian food and lots of great fruit shakes,. We also liked Pwint Mar Lar in New Bagan, which serves local food in large portions.
  • Buddhist temples require you to remove footwear upon entering. Wear shoes that you can easily slip on and off.
  • Check out other resources on the web — I would recommend George and Heidi’s blog and Phil’s blog.

Our friendly cart driver by the full moon